The white shirt was once an understatement. Every man wore one, but no one was allowed to see it. How different things are now!
When you are introduced to your in-laws for the first time, it is quite exciting. What are they going to ask? What will they say? And also: what do I wear? If you, as a future royal, are introduced to an entire country, that is of course even more exciting. Máxima chose a safe suit made of silver-gray silk for her first official appearance (her mother-in-law’s birthday). Sixteen years later, Meghan chose a completely different approach. In addition to ballet flats and jeans with holes (!), the Suits actress wore a white shirt. The sleeves rolled up almost casually, a few buttons loose. At a glance, the garment made it clear that the duchess-to-be had her own ideas about the monarchy and its associated dressing habits.
The British media also immediately saw it as a reference to Princess Diana. She also wore jeans with a white shirt during one of her last charity trips. Now an ode cannot be ruled out, but at the same time the classic is such a basic piece that in theory everyone could be honored with it. It is not without reason that British Vogue describes the white shirt as a wardrobe staple, which means something like ‘a permanent part of every wardrobe’.
Hygiene
For the birth of the classic we have to go back to the seventeenth century. At this time, the separation between the different classes was strict, which was also reflected in all kinds of fashion laws and customs. The white shirt was only worn by gentlemen of rank. To protect their precious cloaks against sweat, dirt and other dirt, they wore an extra layer of cloth over their longer undershirt; so a shirt. Considering the level of hygiene, this is not an unnecessary luxury. At first, the extra layer of protection was barely visible. Large collars and generous ties kept the eye out.
Anyone who follows the TV series ‘Downtown Abbey’ can see that the shirt comes into focus more and more throughout the seasons and that is how it was in real life. At one point you could even communicate something about your social status with the spotlessness of your former underwear. The cleaner the cotton, the richer the gentleman. Because a washing machine did not yet exist, a loose collar was invented in 1827. That was just a bit easier for you. It didn’t matter what the rest of the shirt looked like. That wasn’t visible anyway.
Ladies and gentlemen
In 2024, the white shirt looks very different. Everyone has a few in the cupboard and if there is a stubborn stain, they simply buy a new one for a few bucks. By gentlemen and by ladies. Because yes, over the years the classic has also come to feel at home among hats, dresses and skirts. The embrace of the women’s shirt began in the mid-nineteenth century. During this time the garment was worn as part of the modern suit or an evening dress. Around 1905, the fashion world was inspired by the special lines of the pouter pigeon, called the pouter pigeon in English. Blouses with generous lace flounces made the bosom appear high, just like a pigeon’s.
That brings us straight to the interesting blouse/shirt discussion, because anyone who likes to stay close to strict fashion definitions will not want the pigeon look mentioned in this article. As soon as a white shirt takes on a rounder shape and is worn blouse-like, it is a blouse. A shirt has straight, sleek lines and also a collar, cuffs and a long row of buttons.
Now that the fashion world is looser and freer than ever, the boundaries of the white shirt are of course being endlessly explored. One adds flounces, the other a sexy view and there is also a lot going on in terms of fabrics and proportions. The blouse/shirt debate is becoming more complicated by the day, but that doesn’t stop the royal ladies from donning their former underwear. With her weakness for minimalist business looks, Letizia is the undisputed leader of ‘Kamp Shirt’. During the day she combines the garment with tight pencil skirts, in the evenings with long evening skirts made of shiny silk.
The finest example of a royal women’s shirt was worn by Rania in 2004. During the wedding of Felipe and Letizia, the Jordanian queen wore a long skirt of shiny silk and fragile lace, topped with a tight, business shirt with rolled-up sleeves. The clash of fabrics and styles was so refreshing, so modern, that she was immediately declared the belle of the ball.
High fashion
The masculine side of the white shirt is also cherished at court. During the ceremony of the Princess Grace Awards in New York (October 2018), Charlène wore the garment together with a black tuxedo and suspenders. Talk about tough and powerful.
Is there no expiration date on the white shirt at all? Never say never of course, but at least not for a while. While most trends get boring after about three or four years and then disappear, it is not easy to get tired of the star of this article. You can wear it with chic trousers, comfortable jeans, a warm sweater, a long gala skirt, a business suit and so on. The garment feels at home with everything and in every situation.
This article previously appeared in Vorsten.
